If you want the added security and energy savings that a new insulated steel door offers, or if you love the look of the decorative doors available, we can help. Installing a pre-assembled door is a job you can do yourself if you have any skills in the DIY world, although you still need some help, these types of doors are often heavy.

Tools and materials

  • Level.
  • Hammer.
  • Measuring tape or meter.
  • Weapon and mass caulking.
  • Screwdriver.
  • Wooden shin guards.
  • Do your nails.
  • Screw of suitable length.
  • Foam / fiberglass insulation.

How to choose a door to the outside of the house

The different types of doors available have advantages and disadvantages. The best door for your purposes will depend on which features – aesthetics, durability, energy savings or price – are most important to you. Typically, some types of doors are also available with decorative glass. In this sense, most external doors have insulating glass to save energy, others may have beveled glass, with silk screen or dyed with genuine brass tubes (strips that join the segmented glass).

Wooden doors: They are popular mainly for their appearance and texture. Wooden doors with natural finish and decorative glass are also among the most elegant and expensive. Wooden doors can be stained or painted. A disadvantage of wood is that it shrinks and swells with climate change. Processed wooden doors have laminated centers to reduce the potential for these problems, but the finish on all wooden doors must be maintained to prevent damage over time. In addition, in general, wooden doors are heavier, which makes handling before installation a little more difficult.

Steel Doors: they are also popular. In the center they have foam insulation and save a lot of energy. In addition, they are highly resistant to shrinking, swelling, warping and cracking. On the other hand, they do not have the same aesthetic qualities or the same appearance as wooden doors.

Fiberglass doors: They have many of the advantages of steel, with the added advantage that they can be stained to look like a wooden door. Although they are more expensive than steel doors, they are far from giving the appearance of wood.

Installing an external port on the block

Below are the general principles related to the installation of a pre-assembled or block external door. Installation instructions may vary slightly between different manufacturers. For this reason, always consult the manufacturer’s instructions for the last word when assembling the door to be installed.

How to prepare the wall opening

Remove the new box door assembly. Some pre-assembled doors, for shipping, are fixed with screws installed through the stops or flashings. For these units, the screws must be removed. Other units are shipped with a support that must not be removed until the door is in place at the opening. If in doubt, consult the manual that came with the door.

remove the front door

Remove the current door and remove the frame to leave the opening in the wall (if applicable).

Make sure that the opening is correct and that the bottom sill (the floor where the door sill will be) is level. Level the lower limit, if necessary, using a beveled plate or shims. You may need a spacer plate if you need to leave a large space between the door and an exceptionally high surface, such as a very thick rug.
The opening must be at least 2 cm wider and larger than the dimensions of the outer frame of the pre-assembled door system to be installed.

Apply two lines of caulk a lot along the bottom sill, one inch inside the front and rear edges of where the sill will be placed. Spread the caulking a few inches down the sides of the frame.

How to put the door

Place the door in the opening. Place the bottom and top slanted towards you first, then tilt the door until it clicks into place.

Center the door on the opening and hold the frame firmly in place at the lowest part of the wall opening.

How to regularize and fix the assembly

Now that the door is in place, chock the rest of the door frame as needed to keep it in place. In this step, place shims on the side of the door hinge behind all the hinge fixing points on the door frame. Thereafter, the door will be permanently attached to the wall opening at these points.

Adjust the pre-assembled door

Adjust the wedges and the frame until the side stop of the door hinge is aligned in both directions. There should always be the same space (about 1/8 inch) between the stop and the door edge.

After making these adjustments, temporarily nail the door in place with finishing nails through the hinge stop close to where the hinge will be attached. Do not drive the nails through.

Remove any brackets attached to the door to send it to you, then open and close the door to test its operation. It should work freely.

Outside the house, with the door closed, make sure that there is uniform contact between the front of the door and the caulking tape attached to the frame opposite the hinge frame. Make adjustments, if necessary, by adjusting the stop in and out at the top or bottom.

From inside the house with the door closed, examine the edges of the door. Adjust the side doorframe of the lock until there is an even space (about 1/8 inch) between the edges of the door and the fronts of the doorways.

Install a strong shim behind the lock.
Protect the shoulder pads permanently. Start by tightening 3 ″ screws through the shims where the hinges go to the hinge stop. Continue around the pre-assembled door, securing the remaining stops with screws or nails (as recommended by the manufacturer) that you will pass through the chocks. Insert screws or nails through the shims to avoid warping the door frame when pressing against an unsupported area. Occasionally, check the door while performing this step to make sure that the door assembly remains comfortable. Pass the screws through the shim in place of the lock.

How to finish the job

Insulate the edges of the door frame with flexible fiberglass or low expansion foam insulation. The foam that expands too much can distort the door frame inwards, preventing the door from working.

Fix the internal trim according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Caulk all seams and intersections of the trim and trim, especially along the seams where the trim meets the outer wall, with caulking paint.

Install the caulking tape on the base of the door as instructed by the door manufacturer (if necessary).